It is an honor to speak at Jawahar Bhawan, a place dedicated to the iconic Jawaharlal Nehru, a man whose writings have left a profound impact on me. I would like to begin by quoting Nehru’s "Will":
"My desire to have a handful of my ashes thrown into the Ganga at Allahabad has no religious significance, so far as I am concerned. I have no religious sentiment in the matter. I have been attached to the Ganga and Yamuna rivers in Allahabad ever since my childhood, and, as I have grown older, this attachment has also grown. I have watched their varying moods as the seasons changed, and have often thought of the history and myth and tradition and song and story that have become attached to them through the long ages and become part of their flowing waters. The Ganga, especially, is the river of India, beloved by her people, round which are intertwined her racial memories, her hopes and fears, her songs of triumph, her victories and her defeats. She has been a symbol of India's age‐long culture and civilization, ever-changing, ever-flowing, and yet ever the same Ganga. She reminds me of the snow-covered peaks and the deep valleys of the Himalayas, which I have loved so much, and of the rich and vast plains below, where my life and work have been cast."
My Cultural Association with Ganga
I was born in a place where two small rivers, tributaries of the Ganga, converge, giving rise to the Kho River, itself a tributary of the Ram Ganga. I first encountered the Ganga as a child of seven, at Muni-ki-Reti and Lakshman Jhula near Rishikesh. That mesmerizing first sight made me realize how deeply the river is embedded in the lives and culture of Uttarakhand’s people.
It puzzled me why efforts to protect the Ganga did not resonate widely in Uttarakhand, a state where the river is part of our psyche. Was this disconnect between the people and the intellectual elite? This question motivated me to undertake a journey to understand every aspect of the Ganga and its tributaries.
The Ganga in the Himalayas
In September 2021, I began my formal journey, trekking from Gangotri to Bhojwasa, en route to Gaumukh, covering major rivers like the Yamuna, Tons, Gauriganga, and Kali-Sharda. I traveled to all the Prayags and valleys, witnessing the confluence of Dhauli Ganga, Mandakini, Nandakini, Pinder, Alaknanda, and Bhagirathi rivers. This journey, spanning nearly four years, was not just about exploration but also understanding the crises threatening the Ganga and its tributaries.
From Gangotri to the Bay of Bengal, I observed a civilizational crisis. Ganga, India’s largest river, nourishes one of the world’s most fertile plains, supporting millions of lives. Yet, the unchecked development and exploitation of its waters jeopardize its biodiversity and cultural significance.
The Chipko Movement
In Uttarakhand, the Ganga faces threats from hydropower projects that disrupt its flow, biodiversity, and aesthetic beauty. Visiting Niti Valley, Lata, and Raini—the epicenters of the Chipko movement—helped me understand the true nature of this struggle.
The Chipko movement, led by Gaura Devi and her companions, arose from local communities’ demand for access to forest resources. Post-1962, the closure of Tibet’s markets and continued forest auctions devastated the livelihoods of indigenous Bhutia communities. While the movement gained international fame as an environmental protest, its core was about the rights of native communities. The narrative was later co-opted by Brahmanical elites, sidelining the contributions of indigenous people.
The Threat to River Confluences
The stunning confluences of Uttarakhand’s rivers are disappearing due to barrages and dams. The Bhilangana-Bhagirathi Sangam at Tehri is now submerged. If projects like the Pancheswar Dam proceed, other beautiful confluences like Gori-Kali at Joljibi and Rupin-Supin at Netwar will vanish. While energy needs are vital, the Himalayas and its rivers are not mere resources—they embody heritage and identity.
The Gangetic Plains in Crisis
As the Ganga enters Uttar Pradesh, its woes intensify. Near Bijnor, the water diminishes, and fertile lands are turning into deserts. Sand mining and industrial pollution dominate regions like Garhmukteshwar, Kannauj, and Kanpur. At Kanpur, the once-mighty Ganga resembles a sewage canal, reeking of industrial waste. Projects like Namami Gange have prioritized beautification over restoring the river’s health.
Further downstream, between Allahabad and Varanasi, the Ganga’s condition improves slightly, thanks to the Yamuna’s cleaner waters. However, Varanasi reveals the river’s plight, with polluted tributaries like Assi and Varuna exacerbating the crisis. The Ganga Aarti at Varanasi, now a commercial spectacle, symbolizes the shift from spirituality to consumerism.
Massive Sand Mining in Bihar
Bihar faces rampant sand mining, especially around the Ghaghara-Son-Ganga confluence. Trucks, dust, and environmental degradation dominate the landscape. Agricultural land is turning barren, and communities dependent on the river suffer due to weak enforcement of environmental laws.
In regions like Munger and Bhagalpur, the Ganga still retains its beauty, flowing with relative purity. However, threats persist, including the displacement of fishing communities under the guise of dolphin sanctuaries. Fisherfolk in Bihar, Jharkhand, and Uttar Pradesh have also been affected by the Farakka Barrage, which has disrupted fish migration patterns, including the prized Hilsa.
The Ganga in Bengal and the Climate Crisis
In Bengal, the Ganga splits into the Padma and Bhagirathi rivers. The Bhagirathi flows through historic towns like Murshidabad and Nabadweep before merging with the Bay of Bengal. The Sundarbans, where the Ganga meets the sea, face severe climate challenges, with rising sea levels eroding villages and displacing communities.
Conclusion: A Call to Action
Preserving the Ganga is crucial for India’s ecological and cultural health. From the snow-capped Himalayas to the Sundarbans’ mangroves, the river sustains millions of lives. However, commercial activities and environmental neglect are driving the Ganga to the brink of collapse.
The solution lies in engaging local communities—fisherfolk, farmers, and indigenous people—in decision-making processes. Saving the Ganga is not just about preserving a river; it is about protecting a way of life, an identity, and a civilization. Only through collective action can we ensure the Ganga remains a lifeline for future generations.
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* Human rights defender. This is an excerpt from talk delivered by the author at Jawahar Bhawan, New Delhi, on November 18, 2024, organized by the Rajiv Gandhi Institute for Contemporary Studies
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